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The Legend of the “Convertible“

The watchmakers’ watchmaker, De Bethune was founded by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet with the intention to move towards a watchmaking with a total respect for watchmaking traditions – Zanetta through his vast knowledge of watch collections and the history of watchmaking, and Flageollet through his many years of experience as a watchmaker.

They called themselves the ‘Future Manufactory’. “That was because,” says Flageollet, “we asked ourselves, ‘What can we do in horology that takes everything into account without limits in order to create exceptional timepieces and totally overcome the problems of the manufacture of entire horological masterpieces, not just the design of the case, the dial, the hands and movement?´ Often we take techniques that existed before but were never adapted to use in wristwatches.”

The object of the exercise was to completely integrate the movement, case, dial and hands of a watch as if it were an object, rather than a traditional watch – nevertheless, an object that was easy to read, functional, well adapted and agreeable to wear. And all created in the true tradition of a manufactory – a good product, made from quality material and properly completed and finished. Given the ever-changing fortunes of the watch industry over the second half of the 20th century, many of the traditional watchmaking techniques were either lost or at risk of being lost. “It was only those that worked on high quality restoration that maintained these techniques,” says Flageollet.

They chose to create their manufactory in L’Auberson where they make their movements, cases and watch plates and assemble their watches, because the Jura area has always had a culture and tradition of well-made mechanical products and high-precision workmanship. Due to the innovative nature of the pieces they make, they are able to benefit from this local expertise to create their high-precision pieces in-house.

“In 2004,” says Flageollet, “we did a huge amount of research and development on the balance wheel – the heartbeat of the watch movement. Nobody has revisited the concept of the balance wheel for at least 30 years. We tried different approaches to create something totally new.”

In 2004 they created their first balance wheel using titanium and platinum; in 2005 they improved it by adding thermo compensation. In 2006 they created a completely original balance using the thermo-inert material “silicon” and equipped the balance with a spiral also made from the same material. In 2007 they created one for a 10-day movement and in 2008 evolved it further. They also started work on a completely new concept – made from hard-pressed silicon with an annular balance wheel. In 2009 they created a mix of balances for a completely new tourbillon in order to improve the function of the tourbillon.

“The idea behind the Only Watch piece this year,” says Flageollet, “is that after the first DBS developed especially for the launch of Only Watch, and the DB24 prototype with change of speed of the winding stem, this year De Bethune has created a special silicon/platinum balance.”

The white gold case of this prototype Only Watch “Periodique” watch encloses a simple and efficient mechanism which uses the new technologies of the De Bethune Research & Development department, achieving the best results in reduction of friction, in movement mass, and in shock absorption.

In line with its patented balance, registered in 2004, the aim of which is to use materials to give the lightest possible balance with the largest possible inertia, the manufactory has gone even further in producing an oscillator which gives optimum adjustment with minimum loss of energy. The efficiency of this De Bethune regulating element is 20% greater than that of standard watchmakers.

The De Bethune balance is made up of a silicon disc encircled by a platinum ring: this mechanical principle enables the realization of a perfectly regulated balance which doesn’t require regulating after assembly. Integrated with the spiral which is fitted with the De Bethune curve (used in all De Bethune calibers since 2004), it forms an oscillating group that takes us yet another step in the longstanding research into isochronisms begun by Christian Huygens in 1675.

Thanks to its geometry, the single plane assembled De Bethune curve enables:
• A perfect centering of the evolution of the turns of the spiral
• The absorption of shocks at the joint of the spiral
• A reduced thickness that gives the advantage of a system which eliminates the asymmetrical evolution of the spiral.

This extra flat curve, which is neither manipulated nor flexed by the regulator, keeps its material characteristics at the same time as having the mathematical qualities of a Philips’ curve. This last was used in Breguet’s chronograph balance springs which had a great impact on horology from the beginning of the 19th to the middle of the 20th century.

The mirrored effect of the balance magically reflects the concentric expansion of the spiral and its curve. Its geometry is so perfect that it gives the impression of immobility: only the luminous glittering effect allows you to be aware of its high frequency vibration.

A ruthenium movement with reversed Côte de Genève decoration, triple resistant (friction, movement, shock), hand-polished blued moon-phases and hands, stainless steel elements hand-chamfered, palladium white gold case, crown at 12 o’clock, hours, minutes, 6-day power reserve indication at the back of the watch.

“In creating this unique watch,” says Flageollet, “De Bethune has once again demonstrated our brand’s philosophy of combining respect for tradition, the horological practice of using new technology and the knowledge of using different materials.”

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For more information contact:
Ita McCobb
Patrizzi & Co Auctioneers SA
Tel +41 22 318 28 38
e-mail i.mccobb@patrizziauction.com

Audrey Baylac
Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies / Monaco Yacht Show
Tel +377 93 10 41 70
e-mail audrey@monacoyachtshow.mc